The Complete Guide › Module 2: Bank, Buy-Ins & Color-Ups
How to Do a Poker Bank Fill
A fill is what happens when your bank is running low on chips and you need more to keep the game moving — cash goes out, chips come back in, and because it's a slower, more visible procedure, the whole table ends up watching you do it. Learn the procedure cleanly and it's a non-event. Fumble it and it's the kind of thing a floor supervisor remembers.
When a fill happens
Fills happen between hands, the same as most bank maintenance — some rooms allow it mid-hand, but unless your supervisor says otherwise, treat between-hands as the standard. Take your cash out and display it exactly like a buy-in: starting on the left, broken down clearly, counted out loud so that both you and whoever's receiving it agree on the number before anything moves.
Handing off the cash
Scoop the counted cash together and place it where the person picking it up can take it without reaching over your bank or blocking the tray from surveillance — never let them take it directly out of your hand. Once they've seen the amount, they'll set down spacers representing it, and that display has to stay in place the entire time the cash is off the table. That's your (and surveillance's) record of exactly how much is supposed to come back.
Receiving the chips
When the chips come back, the layout flips from a normal buy-in: short stacks go on your right instead of the left, because during a fill nothing is going out — that side is free to use differently. Full stacks build on the left. Break down one of the largest-denomination stacks, prove it against the others, and count the total out loud to confirm it matches what was displayed when the cash went out.
Getting it into the tray fast
Once it's proven, get it into the bank quickly and correctly: one hand always picks chips up, the other always places the spacers — never cross the two, and never pass a stack hand to hand. Roll each stack toward yourself (or away, either works) to drop it cleanly into the tray without needing to shake it loose. If you know your bank well enough to know exactly where everything's going before the chips even arrive, set up your short stacks and spacers ahead of time — it makes the whole thing noticeably faster.
Where fills actually go wrong
The procedure has a lot of small steps, but the real risk isn't any one of them individually — it's accepting or sending out the wrong amount somewhere along the way and ending up with a bank that doesn't add up. That's the mistake that gets noticed and gets remembered. Slow down enough to count correctly, every time, and the rest of the procedure becomes close to automatic with reps.
- Letting the cash leave the table without a clear spacer record. Whatever amount leaves in cash needs to stay represented by spacers on the table the entire time it's gone — it's the one piece of this procedure that can't be skipped or rushed.
- Taking cash directly from the runner's hand, or handing it to them the same way. The same rule as a buy-in applies here: set it down, don't pass it hand to hand.
- Not proving the returning stacks before banking them. It's tempting to just drop everything in once it arrives — prove the count first, the same as any other chips entering your tray.
- Building the short stacks on the wrong side out of habit. Because a fill reverses the usual incoming/outgoing logic, dealers on autopilot sometimes build short stacks on the left out of habit — during a fill, they belong on the right.
- Going hand-to-hand while banking the new chips. The same rule from working the bank applies here: one hand for chips, one for spacers, never crossed.
- A chip tray or rack — the reversed incoming/outgoing layout of a fill only makes sense with a real tray to practice in.
- Prop / play cash — for drilling the display-and-count half of the procedure realistically.
- Clay poker chips — for proving and banking the returning stacks correctly.
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Fills are rare enough to catch you off guard
Because they don't come up every down, fills are exactly the kind of procedure that's easy to get rusty on. Drill it until it's automatic with a real instructor watching.
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